Dyeing

Piece Die

Before dyeing, the fabric is woven, and this step is referred to as “Some”.
Furisode, Tomesode, Homongi, Tsukesage, Iromuji, and Komon are all created using this weaving method.

In terms of status, piece-dyed kimonos are generally considered higher than yarn-dyed kimonos.

Yarn-dye

The weave patterns are made from the dyed yarn.
Tsumugi (Yuki, Oshima, Shiozawa and Ueda-Tsumugi are famous), Kasuri and Jofu (Echigo, Omi, Miyako and Noto jofu are famous) are included in this category.

It’s called “Ori”.

Tailoring

Awase

Kimono with back fabric in general. It is also called “lined kimono”.
Exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan)

Hitoe

“Hitoe” means “single”.

A “Hitoe” is a kimono without a lining on the back, making it non-sheer. Therefore, it consists of a single layer of fabric.

It is traditionally worn exclusively in both June and September, representing the early and late summer seasons in Japan. However, recently, more and more people have been starting to wear it as early as May or extending it to October, depending on the temperature.

Usumono/ Seika

In the highest summer, another kimono without back fabric is worn. This type is sheer.

In the height of summer, garments such as kimono and obi often utilize materials like linen or high-performance polyester.

However, cotton is often used for casual garments like yukata, which are lightweight summer kimono.

Time, Place and Ocasion

Furisode

The first rate formal kimono for the unmarried lady.
When it is spread, you can see a piece of a fancy pictorial art.

There are several kinds of sleeve length, and the longer is the higher status and the more magnificent.
The broche Obi is frequently used with Furisode because of its luxuriousness and magnificence.

Furisode is worn at celebrations and is not everyday clothes.

Variations of Furisode

Variations of Obi tying

Tomesode (Black)

The first rate formal kimono for the married lady.
The family crest is dyed on 5 spots (either side of the breast and the back side of the sleeves, the center of the back).
Tomesode with the crest on the 3 spots (either side of the breast and the center of the back) is a little informal.
The art on the bottom is a one continuous picture (without interruption on the seam).
This type of design is called “Eba”.

In the wedding ceremony, Black tomesode is wore by the mother of bridal couple, the go-between and the relatives.
Fukuro Obi with the golden and silver thread, the fan with the black ribs, the both side of which is gold and silver are teamed.
The smallclothes are of white fabric with gold or sivler thread.

Tomesode (Colored)

Colored tomesode is for both married/unmarried ladies.
The picture on the bottom is also as same as Black Tomesode.
With the crest on 5 spots tomesode is as same status as Black tomsode, and 3 spots or 1, semiformal.

Homongi

A semiformal kimono for both married and unmarried ladies.
The art is designed on the collar, the shoulder, the bottom. Mainly it is Eba type.
For married lady, Homongi is the most colorific and elegant kimono, and for unmarried lady, the second gorgeous kimono to Furisode.
Homongi is suitable for a wedding ceremony, a formal/semiformal party, a tea ceremony, visiting elders and betters etc.
Obi with golden or silver thread is well matched.

Iromuji

A single colored kimono without picture. It is suitable for both a demitoilet and a stylish garment, and also wearable for both an auspicious event (with a bright color) and a funeral ceremony (with a dark color).
With the crest on 3 spots, the status is higher than Houmongi.
The black colored with the crest on 5 spots Iromuji is the first status for mourning .
With 1 spot crest, it is well-suited to other formal ceremony.

Tshukesage

The second status to Homongi.
All the design on the breast, the shoulder, the front top corsage, the back corsage and the sleeves are upwardness.
Suitable for a formal/semiformal places. For example ; a wedding ceremony of friends, a party, a tea ceremony, going to a theatre etc.
Both Fukuro Obi and Nagoya Obi are matched well.

Komon

Very suitable for a stylish garment (semiformal/casual).
The same patterns are repeated regardless the size or upside/downside of them.
There are a wide variety of disigns and colors, and each characteristics are categorized as Edo Komon, Kyogata Yuzen, Benigata Komon, Sarasa Komon etc.

Variable type of Obi and accessories for kimono go best with Komon. It can become semiformal or casual with them.

Tsumugi

It has been categorized as a casual kimono, but recently characterized as a sophisticated wear because of the excellence of the traditional craftsmanship.
So it is also wearable for something of a party.

Mainly, Tsumgi is made from the dyed yarn, but some are weaven first befor dyeing.
The typical styles of Tsumugi are Oshima, Yuki, Shiozawa, Ueda etc.
Each of them has the unique material and process of manufacture, the name of them has the name of the area of production.

Nagoya Obi and Han-haba (half width) Obi are usually teamed.

Yukata

Casual kimono for summer. Usually made of cotton.
Wearable for the Natsu-Matsuri (summer festival), a casual outing. It had been worn after the bath originally.
Nowadays, young people wear yukata when they go and see a fireworks displays.

Mayumi

Hi! I’m an enthusiastic Kimono consultant, the manager of Project Japan. Beyond work, I love kimonos, relaxing in onsens, exploring music, and traveling. When it comes to food, I have a soft spot for traditional Japanese cuisine and enjoy Japanese sake, wine, whiskey, and coffee.
As a web and video producer, I keep up with the latest in tech.

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